In this itinerary post, I’m going to show you how to spend 2 days in Kanazawa, a city famous for its stunningly restored samurai and geisha neighborhoods and its fresh seafood.

If you’re looking to escape the craziness of Tokyo and the tourist-saturated streets of Kyoto, then you can’t go wrong visiting Kanazawa. With Japan’s swift train system, you can easily visit the city in 2.5 hours (with your JR Pass, it’s free).

All information including prices was updated on December 31, 2022.

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I also had to cancel a nonrefundable hotel reservation for my next destination that I would miss. Luckily, after contacting the hotel and explaining my situation through Booking.com, they agreed to not charge me for the room.

About Kanazawa

When you visit Japan, you’ll be disappointed to learn that most of the buildings you see were constructed after World War II. That’s because the Americans bombed over 60 of Japan’s cities to near annihilation.

However, there were two major cities that were lucky enough to have escaped the firebombings.

(1) As you’re probably already aware, the first is Kyoto.

(2) The second is Kanazawa.

And so today, you can still find neighborhoods in Kanazawa, like the geisha and samurai ones, the same as they were before the war, making the city a history and architecture lover’s dream destination.

But that’s not all that’s interesting about Kanazawa:

If you go back further in time to the Sengoku Period (a major civil war from 1467 to 1600), it becomes more apparent how lucky Kanazawa has been.

During the civil war, the most important family in Kanazawa, the Maeda clan, just happened to be a major supporter of the winning side, the Tokugawa. As a result, during the Edo period (1603 to 1868), the family became the second wealthiest and most powerful family in Japan. Thus, Kanazawa became one of the wealthiest and largest cities (from 5,000 to over 100,000) in Japan as well.

The city also grew as a result of the Maeda’s support of its merchant class. At the end of the war, Kanazawa had too few people, so to increase its population and wealth, the Maeda recruited artisans and merchants. They were given guaranteed business, special privileges, and tax breaks to move to the city.

Unlike in the rest of Japan where the merchant class was among the lowest social classes, in Kanazawa, they were elevated to the highest level. This government support helped the city attract the best and brightest artisans and business people.

How to get to Kanazawa

By Train: Thanks to the construction of a new Shinkansen rail line, you can get to Kanazawa from Tokyo in only 2.5 hours and from Kyoto in 2 hours and 15 minutes. Technically, you could do it as a day trip from Tokyo or Kyoto.

By Bus: You can also take a night bus from Tokyo or Kyoto. Buses are cheaper than trains and by taking a night bus, you’ll save on your accommodation. Check out the Willer Bus website.

By Car: Traveling around the Kanazawa area might be the most convenient way to travel. You could rent a car at Kanazawa Station and use it to explore the area and travel between Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama. (PRICES FROM: US$43/day | Get more info & book car rental)

Other Popular Routes to Kanazawa:

The two most popular ways to access Kanazawa for tourists are Shirakawa-go and the Alpine Route. I’ll explain both below:

1. Shirakawa-go to Kanazawa

If you’re following my 3-week Japan itinerary, you’ll be coming from the fairy-tale town of Shirakawa-go. Besides a car, your only other option is taking a bus. In my Shirakawa-go itinerary post, I list two options: spend the night in Shirakawa-go or leave for Kanazawa in the late afternoon. Either way, the bus ride is 1 hour and 15 minutes.

To give you an idea of bus times, the bus schedule for 2022 shows the first bus leaving Shirakawa-go at 8:50 am and arriving in Kanazawa at 10:05. In the late afternoon, the last bus is at 5:30 arriving in Kanazawa at 6:45 pm. Buses leave every 30 or 60 minutes.  

The bus will drop you off at the East Gate of the train station, near where you can catch the city buses to other parts of Kanazawa.

You can put your luggage under the bus.

Make sure to buy your ticket at least a day in advance as this is a popular route, especially during the peak season.

This is how I got to Kanazawa. I was amazed by how incredibly comfortable and smooth the buses are in Japan. The Japanese maintain their buses very well to the point that it feels like you’re moving over clouds (their shock absorbers are amazing).

Check out my Shirakawa-go itinerary for more info on traveling to this beautiful village.

2. The Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route

Another popular way to access Kanazawa is by the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. If you don’t know what that is, read my Alpine Route post.

You can take the route in either direction. I took it from Kanazawa (technically starts in Tateyama, which is near Kanazawa) to Shinano-Omachi. Many people, instead, start in Shinano-Omachi and end in Kanazawa (technically, Tateyama). If you do it the latter way, you’ll probably take a train from Tateyama to Kanazawa. 

Transport Passes That Cover Kanazawa

These four transport passes might be able to save you money on your trip to Japan. 

(1)  JR Takayama-Hokuriku Area Tourist Pass (5 Days) – Instead of buying the full country JR Pass, get a regional pass. This 5-day pass covers bus and train travel between Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama as well as from Nagoya, Kyoto, or Osaka to those three cities. It also includes transport to Gero Onsen, Kaga Onsen, and Fukui. (COST: US$109 | READ REVIEWS & PURCHASE PASS)

(2) JR West Pass: You can get a 7-day pass that covers train travel for Kansai prefecture and Hokuriku areas. This covers the cities of Kanazawa, Toyama, Kyoto, Osaka, and many more destinations. (COST: US$129.65 | READ REVIEWS & PURCHASE PASS)

(3) JR Hokuriku Arch Pass (7 Days) – This 7-day pass includes unlimited train travel between the cities of Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Kanazawa, Toyama, Nagano, and many more. (COST: US$186.85 | READ REVIEWS & PURCHASE PASS)

(4) JR Hokuriku Area Pass (4 Days) – This 4-day pass includes unlimited travel between the Kanazawa, Toyama, Komatsu, and many other destinations in the Hokuriku area. (COST: US$38.85 | READ REVIEWS & PURCHASE PASS)

How to Get Around Kanazawa

One of the many things that amazes me about Japan is how easy it is for tourists to use its cities’ public transportation systems. Kanazawa is no exception.

You can get lots of great info on bus routes and schedules from the Kanazawa Tourist Information Center inside Kanazawa Train Station or at the Transportation Information Center just outside the East Gate of the station (it’s where you catch the city tourist buses).

Getting Around By Bus

Along with their regular bus service, Kanazawa has set up an additional bus system specifically for tourists. These

• Kanazawa Right and Left Loop Buses run in a clockwise or counterclockwise circle leaving from bus stop #6 at Kanazawa Station and stopping off at major tourist attractions. I used this bus all the time.
• Kanazawa Light-up bus runs only on Saturday night and stops at 16 attractions that are beautifully illuminated. You can get off at any stop. It takes 45 minutes to complete the circuit without getting off.

A bus ride costs ¥200 for adults and ¥100 for children, but you can also get an all-day pass for ¥600 for adults and ¥300 for children. You can buy the pass at the Kanazawa Tourist Information Center.

There are also JR buses in Kanazawa, on which you can use your JR Pass.

For city buses, enter the bus from the back and exit at the front. When you enter, grab a ticket from the machine and when you exit, present the ticket to the driver and pay the driver based on the distance you traveled.

Getting Around by Taxi

You can also get around by taxi. It cost me around ¥900 to go from the Kanazawa Train Station to my accommodations near the Higashi-chaya district (the old geisha quarter). That was before the pandemic, so I am sure the prices are higher now.

Getting Around by Bicycle

Kanazawa has a bicycle-sharing service called Machi-nori . There are 70 spots around the city where you can pick up and drop off your bicycle. All bikes are electric. It costs ¥165 for the first 30 minutes. A one-day rental costs¥1,650. You can read more about the service at the Kanazawa Tourism website.

Getting Around by Foot

You can easily walk to some attractions. I easily walked from the Higashi-chaya District to Kenrokuen Park.

Kanazawa Itinerary – Day 1

Spend day 1 touring the famous Kenrokuen Gardens, the Kanazawa Castle, Ochimi Market, and Higashi-chaya District. 

1. Stop #1 – Kanazawa Tourist Information Center

OPEN: 8:30 am – 8:00 pm

The first thing to do on your Kanazawa itinerary is to head to Kanazawa’s Tourist Information Center at Kanazawa Station. They were very helpful and knowledgeable (especially about the Alpine Route) when I was there. You’ll get some terrific maps, information about public transportation, and information about your next destination (the Tateyama Kurobo Alpine Route or Shirakawa-go).

2. Stop #2 – Booking your onward journey

I also recommend booking your onward journey when you arrive in Kanazawa.

Shirakawa-go and Takayama:

If you’re going to Shirakawa-go or Takayama, book your bus ticket or tour early as prime departure times often sell out during peak travel times. You can buy bus tickets at the Hokutetsu Ticket Office (the bus company) outside the East Gate of the Kanazawa Train Station (where the Loop buses depart from).

You can read about how to travel around Shirakawa-go in my Shirakawa-go Itinerary post and about Takayama in my Takayama itinerary post.

Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route:

Before the pandemic, you had to buy your ticket at least the day before your trip started and you could buy it at Kanazawa Station.

However, as of December 1, 2022, the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route website says that you can only buy the ticket on the same day you begin the Alpine Route and it no longer lists Kanazawa as a location where you can buy the ticket.

If you want to buy your ticket ahead of time, you can only do it online.

Ask the Kanazawa Tourist Information Center to verify this information.

You can read more about how to buy the ticket in my Alpine Route post.

3. Stop #3 – Kenrokuen Garden

COST: ¥320 for adults and ¥100 for children OPEN: 7:00 am – 6:00 pm (Mar 1 – Oct 1); 8:00 am – 5:00 pm (Oct 16 – end of Feb) | LOCATION: Google Maps

The first fun stop on your 2-day Kanazawa itinerary is a visit to the city’s most famous attraction, the beautifully designed Kenrokuen Garden. The Garden is considered to be one of the three greatest gardens of Japan (Okayama and Mito are the locations of the other two gardens).

Kenrokuen dates back to 1676 when the fifth lord, Lord Tsunanori, built a house and garden on a slope facing Kanazawa Castle. After it was destroyed by a fire, it was restored in 1774. At that time, the Midorotaki Waterfall and the Yugao-tei teahouse were added. Subsequent daimyo (lords) expanded the garden including adding more streams and making the pond bigger.

Kenrokuen is a typical Japanese garden with winding paths leading from one small garden area to another. They are all located around a central pond. Each garden is unique.

The design of Kenrokuen is based on a classic Chinese book about the gardens of Luoyang. The name Kenrokuen means “combined six gardens”, which represent six features: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and panoramas.

It’s very popular with Japanese tourists so if you want any kind of tranquility, get there before 9:00 am.

Shigure-tei Tea House

The highlight for me was my visit to the Shiguretei Tea House, where you can drink matcha tea and have a Japan-style snack (¥720). Before leaving the tea house, wander around the building. There is a room covered on all sides by glass that looks over a beautiful and peaceful garden. A great place to rest. It’s open from 9:00 am to 16:00.

Free Garden Tours

You can stop by the Information Booth near Ishikawa-mon Gate in Kanazawa Castle Park for free English-guided tours of Kenrokuen Gardens and Kanazawa Castle at 9:30 to 15:30.

Getting to the Gardens:

• Kanazawa Right Loop Bus – Get off at bus stop #7 (Kenrokuen Garden)
• Kanazawa Left Loop Bus – Get off at bus stop #9 (Kenrokuen Garden)
• Kenrokuen Shuttle – Get off at bus stop #8 (Kenrokuen Garden) – runs on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays

4. Stop #4 – Kanazawa Castle Park

COST: ¥310 for adults and ¥100 for children | OPEN: Park: 7:00 am – 6:00 pm (Mar 1 – Oct 15); 8:00 – 5:00 pm (Oct 16 – Feb 28) Castle: 9:00 am – 4:30 pm | LOCATION: Google Maps

Kanazawa Castle is a replica of the one built in 1580. The original castle, which housed the powerful Maeda clan, was destroyed by a fire in 1881. During World War II, it was used as an army base.

You can wander around the Castle Park for free, but it costs ¥310 to enter the castle costs. I walked around the park but I didn’t go inside the castle as it opened much later than the garden and once I finished the garden, I was too far from the Castle Park entrance to make the trek back.

5. Stop #5 – Omicho Market

COST: free to wander | OPEN: 9:00 – 17:00 | LOCATION: Google Maps

After the gardens, visit Omicho Market. This is Kanazawa’s version of Tsukiji Market. Here you’ll find over 170 stores selling mostly fresh seafood and other local food products.

This market is also where locals and tourists come for lunch. Try the rice bowls topped with Kanazawa’s local seafood specialties.

Getting to Omicho Market:

• Walking: If you exit from the Kuromon Gate in Kanazawa Castle Park, you can easily walk to Omicho Market.
• Right Loop Bus: Get off at Stop #14 (Minami-cho).
• Left Loop Bus: Get off at Stop #1 (Minami-cho).
• Kenrokuen Shuttle: Get off at Stop #11 (Minami-cho). – Only runs on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays.

6. Stop #6 – Higashi-chaya-gai – Geisha District

COST: free to wander | OPEN: 24/7 | LOCATION: Google Maps

The next stop on your 2-day Kanazawa itinerary is a tour of the beautifully preserved geisha district of Higashi-chaya gai. It is the most famous geisha district in Kanazawa.

A stroll through the neighborhood is a great opportunity for architecture lovers to see Japan’s traditional buildings and for just anyone to people-watch and buy souvenirs.

There are tons of shops selling souvenirs, cafes, and restaurants that you can check out. You can also try on a kimono and wander the streets in one.

Shima Geisha House

One place that you must stop at is the Shima Geisha House (COST: ¥500 | OPEN: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm | Google Maps)  a museum that used to be a traditional teahouse where geishas performed for their patrons. You can see where the geisha performed, some of the guest rooms, the proprietress’s room, and the kitchen.

Geisha Performance

The Kanazawa City Tourism Association holds geisha performances here on certain Saturdays. Ask at the Tourism Office at the train station for more information.

Getting to Higashi-chaya District:

• By Bus: Take the Right Loop Bus to Bus Stop #4 (Hashiba-cho Stop).
• By Foot: It’s about 1.1 kilometers or 15-20 minutes from Omicho Market to the Geisha District.

Kanazawa Itinerary – Day 2

Day 2 requires you to travel a bit farther from the center of the city before eventually making your way back to the center. You’ll end the itinerary by exploring the Samurai District. 

1. Stop #1 – D.T. Suzuki Museum

COST: ¥310 (adults); ¥210 (over 65); free (children) | OPEN: 9:30 – 5:00 pm (closed on Mondays) | LOCATION: Google Maps

Start day 2 of your Kanazawa Itinerary at the D.T. Suzuki Museum. This museum is dedicated to Daisetz Teitaro Suzuki (1870-1966), one of Japan’s most famous Buddhist philosophers. He is known for bringing Buddhism to the West.

The museum is in a sleek modern white building that would make Steve Jobs proud.

Inside the museum, you’ll find some information (in various languages) about Suzuki’s life. There’s also a library containing the over 100 books he wrote in English.

The museum’s star attraction is this outdoor mirror pool (no you can’t swim in it) and indoor contemplative space (photo above). There is seating for you to sit and meditate.

Getting to the museum:

• Right Loop Bus: Get off at Bus Stop #9 (Honda-machi Stop)
• Left Loop Bus: Get off at Bus Stop #7 (Honda-machi Stop)

2. Stop #2 – Myoryu-ji (Ninja Temple)

COST: ¥1,000 (adults) | OPEN: 9:00 – 4:30 pm | LOCATION: Google Maps

Get back on the loop bus and head to the Temarachi Temple area. Here you’ll find the interesting Myoryu-ji Temple, also known as the Ninja Temple.

I love backstories about famous landmarks and the “Ninja Temple” has a great one. When the Tokugawa Shoguns took power in Edo (Tokyo), they ordered local daimyo (lords) to take down their defensive structures (smart!). But the daimyo of Kanazawa (Maeda family) found a workaround. They built a line of defense of temples in the southern (Teramachi) and northern areas of the city.

Myoryu Temple was even more clever. They built secret passageways and floors to go around the government regulations on structures. So, the temple has nothing to do with Ninjas.

To visit the temple, you need to go on a guided tour, which you need to arrange by phone (07-241-0888). Kind of a pain. But my suggestion is to ask your hotel or hostel to help you with the reservation. And do it at least a day beforehand. Tours are popular. Oh, and the tours are in Japanese. You’ll get a translated printout in English (or other languages) of what you’re seeing and what the guide is saying.

Despite the inconvenience of arranging a tour, visiting the temple’s unique design is worth it. Luckily it’s on the tourist loop bus route, so it’s not too hard to get to.

Getting to the Myoryu-ji Temple:

From the D.T. Suzuki Museum, at bus stop #9, get on the Right Loop Bus (clockwise) and get off at stop #11 (Hiroji Stop).

3. Stop #3 – Nagamachi District

COST: free to wander | OPEN: 24/7 | LOCATION: Google Maps

As someone who loves looking at architecture, wandering around the winding cobblestoned lanes and canals of the Nagamachi District was a highlight of my Kanazawa itinerary. This neighborhood was where the middle and high-ranking samurai lived during Edo times.

There are a few historic houses that you can visit.

• Nomura Samurai House (Google Maps) – This is a restored samurai house that has been turned into a museum. The house once belonged to the Nomura family, a samurai family that served the Maeda clan from the sixth century to the end of the Edo period.
• Shinise Kinenkan Museum (Old Merchant’s House) (Google Maps) – At this museum, you can see how a merchant family lived. The building was originally a pharmacy selling Chinese medicine. At the front of the house was the pharmacy and the back was the living quarters.

Getting to the Nagamachi District: 

Take the Right Loop Bus and get off at bus stop #12 (Kata-machi Stop).

Going to Tokyo? You’ll Love These Articles:

• How to Find the Best Places to Stay in Tokyo (Even on a Budget)
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• Tokyo Itinerary: How to Spend 4 Perfect Days in Tokyo

Other Things to Do in Kanazawa

If you have time, check out these additional tourist attractions:

• Oyama Jinja Shrine: This shrine is dedicated to the first lord of the Maeda family. This is an unusually designed shrine as it was designed by a Dutch architect and incorporates European style (gate and upper stories) with Chinese and Japanese temple style (first story). (Google Maps)
• 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa (COST: ¥1,000 | CLOSED until Feb 2020) – This museum is supposed to be one of Japan’s top art museums. You can find works by contemporary international and Japanese artists. (Google Maps)
• Kazue-machi Chaya District – It is one of the three geisha districts of Kanazawa It’s located along the river. (Google Maps)
• Nishi Chaya District – The third geisha district of Kanazawa. (Google Maps)
• Yuwaku Onsen Village – About 30 minutes by car from Kanazawa is an onsen village with several ryokan and hot springs. (Google Maps)

Where to stay in Kanazawa

The hotel I stayed at in Kanazawa has closed down, but I found a boatload of alternatives at all price points.

Prices don’t include tax and are what a Genius level 3 member of booking.com would pay for the cheapest room.

I always book a place to stay on either Booking.com or Agoda.

Budget Accommodations in Kanazawa

I found so many good budget options that I had a hard time finding just one place that I would stay at, so I listed all three.

1. Guest House Pongyi

AVERAGE PRICE: US$24/dorm | BREAKFAST: Not included | RATING: 9.5 (55+ Reviews)

• Traditional Japanese-style house that is still very comfortable
• Warm and friendly atmosphere
• Kind, welcoming, and knowledgeable owners
• Access to washing machine and kitchenette
• Staying here is perfect for those looking for Japanese culture on a tight budget

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

2. Kanazawa Guesthouse Stella

LOWEST PRICE: US$27 | BREAKFAST: Not included | RATING: 9.2 (63+ Reviews)

• Located right next to the historic geisha district—Higashi Chaya
• The guesthouse has private rooms with shared bath for only US$27—what a deal!
• Owners are friendly and knowledgeable
• Free coffee and tea
• Staying here is perfect for those on a budget who don’t want to do a dorm room

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

3. Machiya Guesthouse Carta

AVERAGE PRICE: US$46 - $66 | BREAKFAST: included | RATING: 9.6 (65+ Reviews)

• Beautiful traditional Japanese-style guesthouse with modern touches
• Lots of history and culture
• 15-minute walk from Kenrokuen Gardens
• Shared bathroom, shared kitchen, shared lounge
• Japanese-style garden
• Japanese-style rooms with tatami mats
• Very kind owners
• Staying here is perfect for those looking for Japanese culture on a budget

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

Mid-Priced Accommodations in Kanazawa

Kanazawa has a few comfortable mid-priced hotels around the train station and within walking distance of the gardens.

4. Hotel Kanazawa Zoushi

• Newer hotel with both traditional and modern features
• near Omichi Market
• Very stylish and cozy
• Includes a Japanese-style breakfast
• Comfy beds

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

Luxury Accommodations in Kanazawa

Kanazawa has lots of traditional Japanese-style homes to rent that are stunningly beautiful.

5. Kanazawa Machiya Kenroku

• Traditional Japanese-style samurai house with modern conveniences and comforts
• 3-bedroom villa
• Perfect for family or group who wants a traditional Japanese cultural experience

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

6. Maki No Oto Kanazawa

• This traditional Japanese-style hotel is located in the heart of the historic geisha neighborhood—Higashi Chaya
• Modern comforts and conveniences
• Garden, terrace, restaurant, spa

READ REVIEWS & BOOK YOUR STAY: Booking.com | Agoda

Final Thoughts

So there you go–my Kanazawa itinerary for 2 days! Kanazawa makes for a worthwhile stop on any Japan itinerary. For one thing, it’s one of the few major cities whose pre-war buildings still remain. Second, it’s got one of the three greatest gardens in Japan (Kenrokuen).

Which sights are must-sees? My 3 favorite ones in Kanazawa are…

• Higashi-chaya District (Geisha District)
• Kenrokuen Garden (make sure to stop at the teahouse)
• Nagamachi District (Samurai District)

If you have any questions about my Kanazawa itinerary, please feel free to leave a comment in the comment section below.

If you want more info on Japan, check out my Japan Travel Guide page with a list of all my Japan travel articles.

Happy and safe travel!